This article was published elsewhere before Rosh Hashana, but it was edited so drastically that I decided to post the original here to include the introductory information about the Soviet Jewry movement.
With cooler weather and the holiday of Sukkot approaching (beginning on Sunday evening, October 9), the recipes are even more appropriate. Consider incorporating some Ukrainian Jewish dishes into your family celebration, in solidarity with Jews who are spending this Rosh Hashana in the middle of a war or worrying about their family who are.
The first mention of Jews in what is now Ukraine is more than 1,000 years ago. Like everywhere, there were periods of intense antisemitism. But Ukrainian Jews also experienced periods of acceptance and created a flourishing culture there. Rabbi Israel Ben Eliezer, commonly known as the Baal Shem Tov and founder of the Hasidic movement, was born and lived his entire life in Ukraine. In the period after WWI, Yiddish was declared a state language, along with Russian and Ukrainian. Yiddish even appeared on Ukrainian currency at that time!
There are way too many kosher products at the Fancy Food Show for me to provide a complete list. But here are few of my favorites.
Watch for the next story in this series: Fancy Food as Functional Food.
The Fancy Food Show is back! This annual trade show put on by the Specialty Food Association resumed last month after a two-year Covid hiatus. When I lived in New Jersey, attending the show was an easy day trip to Manhattan. Now that I live in Cincinnati, I worried that I might not be able to get there this year, so I was ecstatic when I realized the Show coincided with an already planned trip back east. I was lucky to spend two busy days tasting new and favorite old products, taking notes for stories, and meeting interesting people who love to talk about food as much as I do.
The Specialty Food Association doesn’t actually designate a flavor of the year, but there always seems to be one ingredient that shows up in everything.
I’m not sure how this happens, but I have a theory.
The unexpected Flavor of the Year is the epitome of fancy food: Truffles!
They are hard to find, imported, and expensive. . . . . . . . So how do they become Flavor of the Year?
What is Truffle?
It’s a fungus that grows underground under a host tree, often oak or hazelnut. There are many types – black and white are most common; and they are seasonal - autumn and winter are most common. They grow naturally in Italy and France, where they are harvested with the help of pigs or dogs who are specially trained both to find truffles and to not eat them. These days truffles are also cultivated elsewhere, including the US, but they are a finicky crop that takes a long time to grow, so even farmed truffles are expensive. In their natural form they are extremely perishable, which also affects price.
Root vegetables are at the core of many comfort foods; dishes we crave during the long, cold winter months. Even before modern refrigeration, roots were easy to keep without extensive processing during the harvest season. Unlike late summer harvest produce such as tomatoes, beans, corn and fruits that need canning, drying or pickling, roots only need to be picked, allowed to dry and then stored in a root cellar.
This gallery shows photos of root vegetables both in their natural state and prepared into simple dishes. Most recipes are forgiving and don't require exact measurements.
This post is a follow-up to my January 2022 column in the American Israelite.
This is the first in a series of Kitchen Tips posts about equipment.
I’ll tell you about pieces I love & use all the time and about the items that I found less useful & let go when I downsized last year.
Good knives are the most important tool in the kitchen. A great knife makes your work easier, more accurate and faster.
Terrible knives can make it almost impossible to get anything done.
If I have to cook at someone else’s home or in a synagogue kitchen, I always bring my own knives.
Vinegar is another condiment or ingredient I use often. Sometimes when I feel like a dish is missing something – something I can’t put my finger on – it turns out that a splash of good vinegar does the trick. This year, a few weeks before Passover I participated in the amazing Kosher Food & Wine Virtual Experience, sponsored by Royal Wine Corp. The tasting kit included 25 small bottles of wine! The 2½ hour tasting program left me with a lot of opened bottles, so I currently have two jars of vinegar hanging out in a cabinet – one red and one white. Vinegar takes longer than these other condiments to develop; I will check it in three weeks. Right now I can tell you that when that cabinet opens I get a nose-full of vinegar, so I have high hopes for it.
In the meantime, I hope you will give some of these recipes a try and let me know how you like your homemade condiments.
For many people Passover is a burdensome week of excessive cleaning and extra dietary restrictions. In fact, for most Ashkenazi Jews, Passover has EXTRA extra dietary restrictions. In addition to true hametz, they typically avoid kitniyot – a category of food that includes rice, legumes, and sometimes even corn. But it doesn't necessarily have to be that way.
Jews Around the World Developed Different Traditions
Americans are most familiar with Ashkenazi Jewish traditions that developed and were brought to this country by Jews from Germany and Eastern Europe. Foodwise those traditions include what most people think of as “Jewish” food – matzo balls, gefilte fish, and kugel are some examples.
But Jews lived in and emigrated from many parts of the world, where they developed different traditions including many more than food choices. Sephardic Jews descended from Jews who were thrown out of Spain by the Inquisition in the late 1400s. Some fled north to the Netherlands, then to England and later to the English colonies; some fled south and across the Mediterranean and ended up in Morocco and Northern Africa. Other Jews, known as Mizrahi, were never in any part of Europe. Their diaspora formed mostly east of Israel, in the Syrian peninsula, Persia, Greece and Turkey. There were other pockets of Jews, most notably in Italy, India, and Ethiopia who don't fall into any of these categories. These non-European Jews developed their own prayers, tunes, literature, language, customs, and food traditions.
What does that have to with Passover?
The prohibition of hametz – leavened bread – is a Biblical commandment. The story tells that the Jewish slaves fled Egypt in such a hurry that their dough did not have time to rise. Later, when they finally baked it, the result was a flat bread or cracker. God commands us to avoid risen bread and eat matzo to remember our time in Egypt as slaves and our hasty departure.
According to Jewish LAW only five grains, can ferment and become hametz - wheat, barley, spelt, oats, and rye. These are also the only grains that can be made into matzo and matzo is the only form in which they can be eaten. However, in the 13th century, European rabbis added additional restrictions to prohibit kitniyot – rice, dried beans, millet, and lentils. Those restrictions, developed only 800 years ago, have grown over time to include even more prohibitions including chickpeas, peanuts, soy, and other legumes.
Fundamentally, there is a difference between law and custom, halacha and minchag. Jewish law is derived directly from the Torah, with the details hammered out by the Rabbis of the early Common Era. For example, the prohibition of mixing meat and dairy derives from a single phrase in the Torah: “You shall not boil a kid in its mother’s milk.” (Exodus 23:13) It was THE RABBIS who determined the details of following this prohibition, that include using separate dishes.
However, it wasn’t until 1,200 years later that some rabbis in Europe decided that kitniyot might be confused with other, forbidden, items. These rabbis were concerned that grains of rice and grains of wheat could be mistaken for one another. So, in an abundance of caution, kitniyot were added to the list of forbidden items during Pesach. But, because the ban originated in Europe, Jews of Sephardic and Mizrahi background were not exposed to it and have always included kitniyot in their Pesach diet.
A Modern Decision
In a 2013 teshuvah (religious ruling), Rabbi David Golinkin, a Conservative authority in Israel, noted the reasoning behind the prohibition. At that time, the rabbis reasoned:
However, Rabbi Golinkin revealed that “…not only is the custom contrary to the opinions in the Talmud, but more than 50 different early sages reject it outright.”
So, we learn that even when the prohibition was new, there was disagreement about it.
In December 2015, the Rabbinic Assembly (RA), the rabbinic authority for the Conservative movement, took a long hard look at these additional restrictions. Rigorous research to find the original reasons for the prohibition revealed that it likely began with one rabbi, who it seems did not trust his own wife to know the difference between rice and wheat. As word spread from town to town, more and more rabbis began to follow this ruling in efforts not to appear lax in their kashrut. It is the classic example of a ubiquitous game of one-upmanship.
In addition to the seemingly bogus origin of the rule, the RA considered three modern concerns: 1) nutrition, 2) finances, and 3) Jewish unity. Personally, I will add a fourth, the consideration of highly processed food.
I will add this. Most of the ersatz chametz products, like Pesach noodles, cereal, and even mustard, are highly processed products whose ingredients include a lot of stabilizers and thickeners that aren’t necessary and can be avoided if we just eat real food.
Of course, the RA, while allowing kitniyot, left the decision whether to include them up to individuals. I choose to include them, especially at the Seder.